New York Fashion Week 2019 Color
The buzz about this New York fashion week was that there wasn't any. With Calvin Klein sitting out the flavour and Rodarte the latest brand to jump ship – the designers escaped the New York winter to evidence in sunny Los Angeles last week – this was set to be the way week nobody was talking almost.
Only the absence of marquee names has freed upwards the spotlight for new talent and innovative ideas. One of the hottest tickets on Friday was the showtime show by the little-known Tokyo-based costume designer Tomo Koizumi, to whom Marc Jacobs lent his Manhattan boutique as a venue. Invitations were issued at the last moment for the standing-only prove.
Meanwhile, the hackneyed fashion week tradition of filling the front end row with celebrity guests is existence given a fresh spin at Rag & Bone's event in Brooklyn, where an bogus intelligence arrangement is to be the VIP attendee. And at Kate Spade, the Northern Irish gaelic designer Nicola Drinking glass is bringing sunshine back to the brand that was rocked final twelvemonth past the death of its eponymous founder.
Noticing how the proliferation of mobile phones has drained the atmosphere from catwalk shows, Marcus Wainwright, the British co-founder of Rag & Bone, was spurred on to stage a dissimilar kind of fashion week event. "A couple of years agone I was watching i of our shows from behind a drape, and most of the audition were watching the show through the phones they were holding up in front of them, rather than truly watching what is in fact a live performance. I found that a fleck distressing. Nosotros stopped doing traditional shows after that."
Rag & Bone's event, A Terminal Supper, aims to incorporate engineering science into fashion calendar week in a way that makes shows more interesting, rather than less. "Fashion week is still perfectly valid," says Wainwright. "Information technology even so does what information technology was designed to do, which is operate as a market for clothes. It is a congregation of the impactful people in mode that you need to reach to run a business concern. Nosotros need to be here and to get across our point of view as a brand."
A Terminal Supper will feature a dinner political party with an artificial intelligence machine physically present at the table. The dress code for the dinner, naturally, is new-season Rag & Bone. The concept is "a nod to the way in which humans might co-exist with artificial intelligence, in the futurity – and to how engineering is irresolute the way we interact with fashion," according to Wainwright.
The machine will talk and acquire through the nighttime, using code written for the occasion, earlier making an afterwards-dinner speech. "Information technology might be really weird, only I think it will be fun," says Wainwright. "I'grand non sure how deep the bulletin is, but it should exist a memorable dark."
The death of Spade last June prompted a groundswell of warm feeling towards a brand with which many American women experience a connexion, which has put it dorsum in the limelight.
"Information technology's yet her name to a higher place the door," says Glass, who took over as artistic manager of Kate Spade a niggling over a yr ago, during a preview the day earlier her testify. "This is a make both by and about a spirited woman. I was and however am inspired by what she represented to me, and her legacy will go on to live on in the work that we do, only my job now is to make the brand feel fresh for now."
Glass is refreshing the brand by adding more nuance to the vivid colours it is known for, and remodelling its jokey mood into one with a more subtle kind of wit. A "jellybean lineup" of delicious shades is a key part of the Kate Spade artful, but unexpected shades such as golden raisin yellowish, cherrywood, peppermint and evergreen, which Glass calls "our black", are calculation composure.
Loftier-waisted flared pants are a key silhouette this season. "I love wearing them. They are really flattering, actually. I'm going to wearable a pair to the show," says Drinking glass. "This is a brand with a sense of realness. It's for a woman who loves fashion but has a really busy life."
Some of the outfits on the catwalk volition be styled with two bags, she says, "considering that's the reality of how the modernistic woman carries her stuff around, isn't it?"
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